Corduroy. The name itself evokes a sense of warmth, durability, and perhaps a touch of vintage charm. Its distinctive ridged texture is instantly recognizable, setting it apart from countless other textiles.
But what exactly is this unique fabric? Where did it come from, how is it made, and why has it persisted through centuries of changing fashion and textile trends?
We’ll uncover its ancient roots, trace its journey through history, break down the technical process of its creation, examine its many forms and uses, and discuss its economic and environmental footprint. By the end, you’ll have a comprehensive understanding of this enduring material.
The Rich History of Corduroy Fabric
Corduroy’s history dates back to ancient Egypt, where a similar fabric called fustian was made around 200 AD.
Though rougher than today’s corduroy, fustian shared its distinctive raised ridges. Modern corduroy emerged in 18th-century England and became popular across British society.
The name “corduroy” likely doesn’t come from the French corde du roi (“cord of the king”) as once thought. It more plausibly stems from the British term “kings-cordes” or the surname Corderoy.
Though once dubbed the “poor man’s velvet” after velvet became the elite’s choice, corduroy made a comeback during World War I for uniforms.
It fell out of style in the 1950s but was revived in the 1970s, especially in the U.S., where it was embraced for its retro and textured appeal.
Today, corduroy remains a durable, stylish choice for pants, jackets, and children’s wear. With a growing interest in natural fibers, all-cotton and wool corduroy are increasingly favored.
How Corduroy Fabric is Made?
The production of corduroy involves a specific series of steps, beginning with material sourcing. The initial process varies depending on the fiber type. Natural fibers like cotton are sourced from plants, and wool from animals, while synthetic fibers such as polyester and rayon are produced in factories.
Once the yarn is ready, the creation of corduroy fabric follows a universal set of steps.
Weaving
Most corduroy uses a plain weave, where weft threads alternate over and under warp threads. While twill weaves are possible, they are less common.
After the base weave is established, a special “pile thread” is added. This pile thread is specifically designed to be cut later to form the characteristic ridges.
Glueing
To prepare the fabric for the cutting process, glue is applied to the back. This is a critical step to ensure that the pile yarn remains securely in place and doesn’t pull through when it’s cut. This temporary glue is removed later in the production process.
Cutting of pile yarn
Using an industrial cutter, textile manufacturers carefully sever the pile yarn. Once cut, the fabric undergoes further processing: the cut yarn is brushed and singed.
This brushing and singeing help create the soft, uniform ridges that give corduroy its distinctive feel and appearance.
Dyeing
Corduroy fabric is often dyed. One common and visually appealing method is pigment dyeing. This process, applied to the completed fabric, results in a unique, irregular, or mottled pattern.
A fascinating aspect of pigment dyeing is that the pattern actually becomes more pronounced and distinct with each washing, adding to the fabric’s aesthetic appeal. Most types of corduroy fabric undergo pigment dyeing.
Different Types of Corduroy
Corduroy is not a single, monolithic fabric. It comes in several distinct types, primarily differentiated by the width of their wales. The wale number, as discussed, is the key factor, with lower numbers indicating thicker wales and higher numbers indicating thinner ones. Wale counts can vary widely, from 1.5 to 21.
Here are some of the main types of corduroy and a related corded fabric:
Standard Corduroy
This is the most common type. Standard corduroy fabric typically has around 11 wales per inch. Fabric with anywhere between 8 and 13 wales per inch is usually still classified as standard corduroy.
Elephant Cord
As the name suggests, inspired by the thick folds in an elephant’s skin, this corduroy features very large, thick cords. Elephant cord fabric has a very low wale number, typically between 1.5 and 6.
Pinwale Corduroy
Also known as pincord, this type is the complete opposite of elephant cord. Pinwale corduroy is characterized by a high number of tiny ridges packed into each square inch. Some exceptionally fine pinwale corduroy can have as many as 21 wales per inch.
Pigment-Dyed Corduroy
While a dyeing process rather than a structural type, this is often listed as a distinct category because the dyeing method significantly impacts the final look. As mentioned in the production section, pigment dyeing creates a mottled appearance that becomes more distinct with washing and is used on most corduroy.
Spandex Corduroy
This type incorporates spandex into the fabric blend (cotton, poly blend, or wool) to provide stretch. Spandex corduroy is commonly used in garments, particularly children’s clothing, where flexibility is desired.
Bedford Cord
While similar in weave to corduroy, Bedford cord is an American fabric with a key difference: the pile yarns remain uncut. This results in ridges that are less prominent than those in traditional corduroy. It is a corded fabric, but not technically a pile fabric like true corduroy.
Common Uses of Corduroy Fabric
Corduroy’s durability and distinctive look have lent themselves to a variety of applications throughout history and into the modern era.
Historically, corduroy was used extensively for workwear, soldier’s uniforms, hats, and even upholstery. While its overall prevalence might not be as high as in certain past periods, its applications remain significant.
Today, in apparel, corduroy is primarily used for overalls (dungarees), pants, and jackets. Although corduroy trousers may have lost the fervent cult popularity they held in the 1970s, they continue to be a classic item that consistently remains in style. Corduroy is also used for shirts and dresses.
Beyond clothing, corduroy is utilized in home furnishings. It is used for covering chairs and couches, as well as for making decorative cushions and pillows.
Interestingly, corduroy also had a brief stint in the early automotive industry. Starting in the 1910s, the first automobiles on the market featured corduroy upholstery. However, it was soon replaced by more durable fabrics, and you won’t find corduroy on the seats of modern cars.
Environmental Considerations and Certifications
The environmental impact of corduroy fabric is not uniform; it depends significantly on the fibers it contains. Different fiber types have vastly different environmental footprints.
Synthetic Fibers
If corduroy is made with synthetic fibers like polyester or rayon, its environmental impact can be considerable. The production of these fibers often involves industrial processes that generate significant chemical waste.
Furthermore, synthetic fibers are not biodegradable and contribute to microfiber pollution by releasing tiny plastic fibers into the water supply with each washing.
Cotton
Cotton, a natural fiber commonly used in corduroy, also has potential negative environmental impacts. As a plant crop, cotton cultivation frequently uses chemical pesticides and fertilizers, which can pollute surrounding ecosystems.
However, unlike synthetics, cotton is biodegradable and does not contribute to the issue of microfiber pollution.
Wool
Wool, when used for corduroy, is considered one of the most sustainable textile fibers. Wool production does not require chemical cultivation agents.
While bodily waste from wool-producing animals can pose a potential issue, wool itself is biodegradable and recyclable.
Enhanced FAQ: Your Corduroy Questions Answered
Drawing on common search queries and information from the sources, here are answers to some frequently asked questions about corduroy:
Q: Is corduroy a warm fabric?
A: The warmth of corduroy depends primarily on the material it’s made from and its thickness. Corduroy woven from wool or thicker cotton blends will generally be warmer than thin cotton or polyester versions.
The piled structure of the wales can trap air, adding some insulation compared to a flat weave of the same material.
Q: Is corduroy durable? A: Yes, corduroy is widely recognized as a durable fabric. Its woven structure and cut pile give it strength, making it suitable for items like pants and jackets that see a lot of wear.
Q: What are the different types of corduroy wales? A: Corduroy wales are the raised ridges on the fabric surface. They are categorized by their thickness, which is determined by the wale number (wales per inch). The main types mentioned in the sources include:
- Standard Corduroy: 8-13 wales per inch.
- Elephant Cord: 1.5-6 wales per inch (very thick).
- Pinwale Corduroy (Pincord): Up to 21 wales per inch (very thin, tiny ridges).
Q: What is the difference between corduroy and velvet?
A: Both corduroy and velvet are pile fabrics, meaning they have cut fibers that stand up from the base weave. However, velvet typically has a dense, smooth, even pile across the entire surface, giving it a soft, luxurious feel.
Corduroy’s pile is cut into distinct, raised ridges or wales, creating its characteristic textured pattern. Historically, corduroy was even called “poor man’s velvet” because velvet was considered the more sumptuous fabric.
Conclusion
From its potential ancient origins in fustian to its development in 18th-century England and its cultural moments throughout the 20th century, corduroy fabric has proven its staying power.
Defined by its distinctive raised ridges or wales, created through a specialized weaving, gluing, and cutting process, corduroy offers durability and a unique aesthetic.
Available in various forms like standard, elephant cord, and pinwale, and made from fibers ranging from sustainable wool to more environmentally impactful synthetics, corduroy continues to find its place in apparel, home furnishings, and beyond.
While its production process makes it slightly more costly than plain weaves, its enduring appeal and versatile nature ensure its continued presence in the world of textiles.
Corduroy is more than just a fabric; it’s a material with a rich history and a timeless quality that keeps it relevant today.
Ready to explore the world of textiles and fabrics in more detail? Stay tuned for future posts diving deep into the properties, production, and uses of other fascinating materials that shape our world.
