Pattern Description:
The Romulea Skirt is a versatile, pleated skirt pattern considered a wardrobe staple. It lends itself well to fabrics like twill or abstract brocade, but it truly stands out when details like decorative trim or appliqués are involved. The design includes pockets, a waistband, and instructions for zipper insertion.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
- Seam Allowance: All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.
- Sizing: This specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
- Yardage: The amount of fabric needed is dependent on the size chosen; users are advised to check the “Shop This Look” box after entering their size to view the necessary yardage.
Materials Used in the Featured Version:
- Main Fabric: 2.5 yards Steel Gray and Black Abstract Metallic Jacquard.
- Trim: 1.5 yards 5″ 3D Metallic Gunmetal Floral Lace Trim (used along the front waistband and pockets in the example).
- Lining/Contrast: 1/2 yard Black Solid Organic Cotton Twill.
- Zipper: An approximately 9″ invisible zipper was used in the making of the Romulea Skirt. A 24″ invisible zipper may be used if extra length is desired.
Instructions for Making the Romulea Skirt Pattern:
Constructing the Side Seams and Pockets
The first procedural decision involves determining which side of the skirt will house the zipper.
- Step 1: Closing the Non-Zipper Side Seam and Pocket On the side opposite the planned zipper location, begin attaching the pocket panel. Connect one pocket panel by sewing it to both the front and back skirt pieces.
- Step 2: Securing the Pocket and Side Seam With the pocket attached, fold it in half so that the fabric faces of the front and back skirt panels align. Next, sew along the lower edge of the pocket.
Continue sewing down the side of the skirt. This single seam simultaneously closes the bottom of the pocket and completes the side seam of the skirt for this side.
Preparing Pleats and Zipper Integration
The subsequent steps focus on shaping the skirt panels through pleating and preparing the opening for the zipper installation.
- Step 3: Pinning Pleats and Finished Pocket Using the guidelines indicated on your pattern pieces, begin pinning the pleats together. These pleats must be pinned along both the front and back portions of the skirt. Additionally, pin the finished pocket (the one attached in Step 2) to the front panel of the skirt.
- Step 4: Preparing the Zipper-Side Pocket On the side of the skirt reserved for the zipper, pin and sew the remaining pocket panel. This panel should be sewn to the front of the skirt only at this stage.
Attaching the Waistband and Zipper
These steps cover the integration of the structural elements necessary for wearing the skirt.
- Step 5: Waistband Construction and Attachment Take the two pieces designated for the waistband. Interface both pieces for stability. Sew the two waistband pieces together along one side.
Press this seam open. Pin the attached waistband to the closed side seam of your skirt. Then, pin and sew the remainder of the waistband along the top edge of the skirt.
During this process, ensure that the pinned pleats remain flat while sewing them into the waistband.
- Step 6: Inserting the Invisible Zipper The next crucial stage is inserting the zipper. The zipper attaches to the back panel of the skirt in the standard fashion. When positioning the zipper, ensure that the starting point is only 2″ up into the waistband.
The front section of the zipper will attach both to the waistband and the back edge of the pocket panel. Once the zipper is attached, sew down the remaining portion of that skirt side to close the remainder of the side seam below the zipper opening.
Finalizing Details
The last steps involve finishing the upper and lower edges of the garment.
- Step 7: Finishing the Waistband and Hemming To complete the top edge, fold the top of the waistband down toward the inside of the garment. Next, fold the raw edges of the waistband inward.
Use a slip-stitch to close the waistband along the top of the zipper and the rest of the skirt opening. Finally, hem the bottom edge of the skirt to your desired length using a small, rolled hem.
- Applying Optional Trim or Appliqué If you choose to incorporate decorative elements, such as the 3D floral lace trim used in the featured example, pin the trim onto the desired locations on your skirt.
The featured version used trim along the bottom edge of the waistband and running down the sides of the pocket opening. Secure the decorative trim by hand-stitching it in place.
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