Pattern Description:
The Cassia Skirt is a free sewing pattern loaded with chic details like a contrasting faux leather waistband and oversized pockets.
It also features a Faux Leather button placket. Although it may seem intimidating, it is a beginner-friendly pattern, backed by faux leather.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
| Item | Quantity / Detail |
| Main Fabric | 2 yards of Brown and Black Leopard Printed Faux Fur Backed by Faux Leather |
| Lining Fabric | 2 yards of Black Polyester Lining |
| Buttons | 5 pc of Italian Black and Gold Metal 4-Hole Button 40L/25mm |
| Pattern | 1 pc (MDF097 – The Cassia Skirt Sewing Pattern, free download) |
| Closure | Hook and eye closure (for above the zipper closure) |
| Seam Allowance | All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated |
| Sizing | The pattern is available up to a size 30 |
Instructions for Making the Cassia Skirt Sewing Pattern:
Constructing the Skirt Lining
Begin the construction process with the lining fabric, which is suggested to be black polyester lining.
- Darts and Center Back (CB) Seam: Sew the darts into the back pieces of the lining. Once sewn, press the darts toward the sides. With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, pin the back pieces of the lining together at the CB seam and sew them.
- Side Seams: Pin the right side of the skirt lining pieces together at the side seam, ensuring the right sides are together, and then sew them.
- Zipper Opening: For the left side of the skirt lining, pin the pieces together at the notched marking. Only sew the side seam up to the notch marking specified for the zipper opening, leaving the remaining portion open. Be sure to backstitch at the point where the sewing stops.
Constructing the Main Skirt
The main skirt is constructed using the faux fur fabric.
- Darts and Seam Preparation: Sew the darts into the back pieces of the faux fur skirt, mimicking the process used for the lining. Trim these darts to effectively reduce bulk. Before sewing the center seams, ensure the faux fur is shaved down at the seam allowances.
- Center Back Seam: With right sides facing, use clips to secure the center back pieces together, and then sew.
- Attaching Pockets: The faux leather side of the fabric is used for the pockets to create a contrasting detail.
Shave down the fur at the seam allowance of the pocket pieces. Use the pattern’s markings to position the pockets accurately and pin them in place. Attach the pockets to the skirt fronts by topstitching 1/8″ away from the edge.
- Center Front (CF) Seam: Clip the skirt pieces together at the CF seam with right sides facing, and then stitch them. After stitching, open the seam allowance and finish the CF seam as a flat felled seam.
Attaching the Faux Button Placket
The faux button placket is an important design detail that is attached before the skirt front and back pieces are joined.
- Button Placement: Measure and mark the placement spots for the buttons, ensuring the marks are evenly spaced apart.
- Button Application: Hand sew the five Italian Black and Gold Metal 4-Hole Buttons (40L/25mm) onto the faux placket.
- Placket Attachment: Use clips and pins to hold the completed placket in place along the center front of the skirt. Using a zipper foot attachment, top-stitch the faux placket securely onto the center of the skirt.
Joining Skirt Sections and Waistband Construction
- Side Seams: Clip the skirt’s side seams together, right sides facing, and stitch them. On the opposite side of the skirt, sew only up to the zipper notch and backstitch.
- Waistband Construction: The contrasting waistband uses the faux leather side of the fabric. With the right (faux leather) sides facing, use clips to hold the waistband pieces together and stitch at the right side seam.
Open this seam and stitch it down as a flat felled seam. Repeat this procedure for the lining waistband. Crucially, both the main and lining waistband pieces should be sewn only at one side, leaving the other side open for the zipper insertion.
Finishing Details and Closure
- Waistband Attachment: Attach the lining waistband to the top edge of the main skirt waistband. Trim the resulting seam allowance, turn the pieces, and then topstitch along the waistband edge.
- Lining Insertion: Insert the lining into the skirt, holding it in place at the waist using clips. The top edge of the waistband lining must be left free because it will be finished later by hand.
- Lining Hem: Turn under the lining hem by 1/2″ and finish it.
- Zipper Insertion: Pin the zipper to the outer fabric opening, starting at the top of the waistband. Sew the zipper only to the outer fabric, leaving the lining free. Fold over the lining and hand-stitch it to the zipper to complete this step.
- Final Closure: Fold over the waistband lining and slip-stitch it closed by hand. Finally, attach the hook and eye closure just above the zipper closure to complete the skirt.
Download Free PDF:
