Materials Needed & Measurements
- Suggested Yarn: Slavicayarns Vesna (115g = 460m/504yds, 60% SW Merino, 20% Baby Alpaca, 20% Silk)
- Yarn Measurements:
- Main yarn: 918 (978, 1107, 1140, 1245)(1351, 1429, 1582) m / 1000 (1066, 1207, 1242, 1357)(1473, 1557, 1725) yds
- Contrasting yarn: 92 (97, 103, 106, 113)(120, 125, 132) m / 101 (106, 112, 116, 123)(130, 136, 144) yds
- Note: Yardage may vary based on yarn, gauge, or modifications
- Hook Size: 2.5 mm and 3.0 mm (adjust if necessary for gauge)
- Pattern Measurements:
- Bust Circumference: 84 (89, 94, 99, 104)(109, 114, 119.5) cm / 33 (35, 37, 39, 41)(43, 45, 47)”
- Upper Sleeve Circumference: 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34, 35)(38.5, 40, 42) cm / 12 (12.4, 13, 13.4, 13.8)(15.2, 15.7, 16.5)”
- Back Neck to Underarm: 12.5 (13, 13.5, 14, 14)(15.5, 16, 17) cm / 4.9 (5.1, 5.3, 5.5, 5.5)(6.1, 6.3, 6.7)”
- Hem to Underarm: 22 (22, 23, 23, 24)(24, 24, 25) cm / 8.7 (8.7, 9.1, 9.1, 9.4)(9.4, 9.4, 9.8)”
- Sleeve Length: 27 (27, 29, 29, 31)(31, 31, 33) cm / 10.5 (10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12)(12, 12, 13)”
- Needle: Tapestry needle (for weaving and hiding yarn ends)
- Additional Tools: Scissors, stitch markers
Abbreviations: US crochet terminology
Special Stitches & Pattern Notes:
- Mosaic crochet technique with color changes every 2 rounds
- Raglan shaping from the top down
- Yoke worked in turned rounds; body and sleeves in unturned rounds
- Follow mosaic pattern by chart or written instructions
- Carry yarn along the inside to avoid cutting after every color change
7 Easy Steps to Stitch Mosaic Cropped Sweater Pattern:
1. Gauge Swatch
- Purpose: A gauge swatch is essential to ensure your finished sweater will fit correctly. Using the specified hook size and stitch (half double crochet under three loops), work a small sample square.
- Stitch Pattern: Half double crochet (hdc) under three loops creates a sturdy fabric with a subtle texture.
To work under three loops, insert your hook into the “V” on top plus the third loop located just behind it.
- Measurements: After completing your swatch, measure it to ensure you have 20 stitches and 19 rows per 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”) square.
If your swatch is too small, try a slightly larger hook size; if it’s too big, use a smaller hook.
- Blocking: Wash and block the swatch as you would your sweater. This step ensures that any changes in size post-washing are accounted for.
2. Set Up the Yoke
- Top-Down Construction: The sweater is worked from the top down, starting with the yoke (the part that goes around your neck and shoulders).
- Raglan Shaping: This design uses raglan increases at four points around the yoke. Place stitch markers at each raglan point and work increases around them as directed.
This shaping method creates room in the shoulder area and allows for a natural drape.
- Turned Rounds: For the yoke, each round is turned at the end, giving a subtle texture that complements the mosaic pattern. Be consistent with turning as this keeps the yoke shaping symmetrical.
3. Work Mosaic Pattern
- Mosaic Technique: This sweater uses mosaic crochet, which involves working with two contrasting colors in a specific pattern. The pattern can be followed either by a chart or by written instructions.
- Color Changes: Change colors every two rounds for a visually striking mosaic effect. Avoid cutting the yarn after each color change; instead, carry the unused yarn along the inside of your work.
This reduces the number of ends to weave in and gives a cleaner look on the inside of the sweater.
- Reading the Chart: If using the chart, remember that each square represents a stitch in a specific color.
Take your time to familiarize yourself with the chart or written pattern, as this helps prevent mistakes later.
4. Shape the Body
- Divide for Body and Sleeves: Once the yoke reaches your desired size, it’s time to separate the body and sleeves. Place each sleeve section on stitch holders or waste yarn to work on later.
- Body Length: Work the body in unturned rounds, continuing the mosaic pattern until it reaches your preferred length.
The pattern is designed to be cropped, but you can add extra rounds if you’d like a longer sweater.
- Adjusting for Fit: Try on the sweater as you work to ensure it fits comfortably around your torso.
This step helps you make any adjustments to the length or width before completing the lower body.
5. Add Hem and Cuffs
- Hem: Once the main body is done, work the hem in rows and join it to the body as you go. This method creates a smooth, seamless finish.
The hem can be customized for a tighter or looser fit depending on your preference.
- Sleeves: Pick up the sleeve stitches from your stitch holders and continue working each sleeve in the round, following the mosaic pattern.
You can try the sweater on to check sleeve length as you work, making adjustments as necessary.
- Cuffs: Add the cuffs in rows and join them to the sleeves. This finishing touch brings a neat edge to the sleeve and complements the sweater’s mosaic pattern.
6. Weave in Ends
- Tapestry Needle: Use a tapestry needle to carefully weave in any loose ends. Take care to hide them neatly within the fabric, especially the yarn carried along the inside for color changes.
- Securing Carried Yarn: If you carried yarn along the inside of the sweater for the mosaic pattern, make sure these strands are secure and don’t create any bulk. Avoid pulling them too tight as this may cause puckering.
7. Final Blocking
- Purpose of Blocking: Blocking relaxes the stitches and evens out the fabric, enhancing the mosaic pattern’s appearance.
This step is particularly important for mosaic crochet as it aligns the colorwork and helps the sweater lay flat.
- Blocking Method: Soak the sweater in lukewarm water, gently squeeze out the excess water, and lay it flat on a towel or blocking mat.
Shape the sweater to the desired dimensions, paying attention to areas like the sleeves and hem.
- Drying: Allow the sweater to dry completely before wearing it. Blocking ensures that your finished piece maintains its shape and that all measurements are accurate.
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