Pattern Description:
This free sewing pattern creates a roomy, reversible shopping bag or purse with a cute shape.
It features big wrap-around exterior pockets ideal for handy items like phones and keys, and interior pockets that can be divided for smaller items. The bag is finished with cute rope handles secured with eyelets.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
Materials:
- 1 yard of fabric for the bag exterior.
- 1 yard of fabric for the bag interior (which can alternatively be 1/2 yard for the pockets and 1/2 yard for the lining).
- 1/2 yard of canvas fabric for the interlining (or 1 yard of your preferred interfacing).
- 1 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing for the pockets.
- 64” of pretty cotton rope for the handles. This rope is cut in half to make two 32” pieces.
- 4 extra large eyelets.
- Fabric marking pen and/or chalk.
Cutting Dimensions:
- From the exterior fabric, cut:
- 2 rectangles 18” x 21”.
- 2 pocket pieces 16” x 13”.
- 1 binding strip 2” x 40” (or the width of the fabric).
- For the lining and interior pockets, cut:
- 2 rectangles 18” x 21”.
- 2 pocket pieces 16” x 13”.
- For interfacing and stabilizer, cut:
- 2 rectangles 18” x 21” of canvas or other interfacing to stabilize the bag body.
- 4 rectangles 8” x 13” of lightweight fusible interfacing (such as Pellon SF101 or similar) to stabilize the pockets. (Note: These 8″ x 13″ pieces are fused to the bottom half of the 16″ x 13″ pocket pieces).
Instructions for Making the Shopping Bag with Rope Handles Pattern:
Preparation (Interfacing and Stabilizer)
Before sewing, prepare the bag pieces by applying stabilizer. You will need two 18” \times 21” rectangles of canvas or other interfacing to stabilize the bag body.
Fuse, spray baste, or machine baste these large pieces to the back of the 18” \times 21” exterior fabric pieces.
For the pockets, cut four 8” \times 13” rectangles of lightweight fusible interfacing, such as Pellon SF101 or similar.
Fuse these interfacing pieces to the bottom half of the 16” \times 13” pocket pieces, including those designated for the bag interior.
Sew the Bag Pockets
To construct the pockets, fold the 16” \times 13” pocket rectangles in half, aligning the 13” edges, with right sides together.
Pin the edges. Stitch around the three sides using a 1/2” seam allowance. Be sure to leave a 4-5” opening for turning the pocket right side out, and clip the corners.
Turn the pockets right side out and press them flat. To make the top of the pocket, topstitch 3/4” from the folded edge. Repeat this process for all two exterior pockets and the two interior pockets, then set them aside.
Sewing the Bag Body (Exterior and Lining)
Stack the four 18” \times 21” bag body rectangles (including the two pieces with stabilizer attached). Cut 3” squares out of the bottom corners, taking care if directional fabrics are being used.
Begin sewing the exterior bag pieces:
- Pin the two bag exterior pieces right sides together along one side and sew using a 1/2” seam allowance. Press this seam open.
- Center one pocket over the seam on the outside of the bag, placing it 1/2” above the corner cut-out. Pin the pocket in place.
- Sew the pocket to the bag by stitching 1/8” from the edge around the sides and bottom.
- Fold the bag right sides together and sew the remaining side seam, but do not sew the bottom edge yet.
- Turn the bag right side out and center the second exterior pocket over the side seam just stitched. Pin the second pocket in place, carefully ensuring you only pin through the top layers, avoiding sewing through to the other side of the bag.
- Turn the bag wrong side out again. Pin and stitch the bottom edge, then press the seam open.
- Flatten the corners by aligning the side and bottom seams, and stitch them.
Repeat steps 2-8 to create the shopping bag lining. When attaching the interior pockets, use a fabric pen or chalk to draw a line down the center of each pocket before sewing it to the bag.
Stitch along this line immediately after attaching the pocket to divide it, making it suitable for smaller items.
Sew the Shopping Bag Together and Mark Pleats
Lay the bag exterior flat with the seams at the sides. At the top edge, measure and make two marks that are 2” and 3\ 1/2” from the side.
Place the bag lining inside the bag exterior, aligning the right sides together. Match up the side seams and pin the top edges together at the sides and the center front and back.
At each side, bring the pleat markings together and fold the pleat toward the center of the bag. Pin the pleat in place; note that the pleat is folded through all layers (exterior and lining together).
Repeat this process to make four pleats in total (two on each side of the bag). Sewing-machine baste around the top edge of the bag, 1/4” away from the edge, to secure the layers and hold the pleats.
Binding the Top Edge of the Bag
The binding process requires a 3/8” seam allowance. Press one edge of the 2” \times 40” binding strip over by 3/8”.
Turn the bag inside out. Align the binding strip on the top inside edge of the bag, placing the right side of the binding strip against the bag lining, with the un-pressed edge along the top.
Leave approximately 3-4” of extra binding strip on the left side. Start sewing the binding at the first pleat where it is pinned, using a 3/8” seam allowance.
Continue sewing until you reach the fourth pleat, a couple of inches away from the side edge where you began.
Bring the binding ends together to meet at the corner of the bag and pin the binding together just past the edge.
Sew the binding together at this marked spot, and trim away the extra binding 1/4” past the seam. Finger-press the seam open and finish sewing the binding to the inside of the bag.
Turn the bag right side out. Fold the binding around the top edge, tucking under the pressed edge. Clip or pin this edge in place all the way around the top. Finally, sew the binding down from the outside of the bag, stitching close to the folded edge.
Attaching Grommets and Rope Handles
To attach the rope handles, you will need the four extra large eyelets. Mark the eyelet location 1\ 1/2” below the top edge of the bag and 1\ 1/2” away from a pleat mark (toward the center).
Use one of the grommet pieces to trace a circle around the mark, and then use sharp scissors to cut the circle out through all the layers.
Place the larger piece of the grommet through the front of the bag and rest it against the little round tool (the donut-looking tool).
Place the smaller ring of the grommet around the first piece from the inside of the bag. Stack all the pieces onto the donut tool, place the stamper tool over the small ring, and hit the stamper tool hard with a hammer two or three times to secure the grommet.
Using a tile or concrete floor is recommended for effective pressure when setting the grommets.
Cut the 64” of cotton rope in half to create two 32” pieces. Thread each end of the rope through one of the eyelets and tie a knot to secure it.
