Pattern Description:
This beginner-friendly boho maxi skirt pattern by Portia Lawrie is drafted directly onto fabric, making it fully customizable to your exact waist and length.
The skirt is built from three simple rectangles with a clean center-back zip and optional pockets for practicality.
Its versatile drafting method also adapts easily into midi or mini lengths, offering a timeless, go-to skirt pattern for every season.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
Materials and Pieces to Cut
The pattern is drafted directly onto the fabric, requiring specific pieces based on your W and L measurements plus seam and hemming allowances.
Fabric Pieces for Skirt Body:
- Front Skirt Piece (1 piece): A rectangle cut to the width of W + 3cm (1¼in) (allowing for 1.5cm seam allowance on either side) and the length of L plus your preferred hemming allowance.
- Back Skirt Pieces (2 pieces): Begin by cutting a rectangle 3cm (1¼in) wider than the front piece (to accommodate a center back seam) and the same length. Cut this rectangle straight up the middle to create the two narrower back pieces.
Other Fabric and Notions:
- Pockets (2 pairs): Cut two pairs of pockets; these can be drawn yourself or copied from an existing pattern. Ensure a 1cm (3⁄8in) lip along the long edge and that the two straight edges are at right angles.
- Waistband Pieces (3 pieces), 8cm (3in) wide:
- Front piece: Half of W + 3cm (1¼in) seam allowance.
- Back piece A: Quarter of W + 3cm (1¼in) seam allowance.
- Back piece B: Same as Back piece A, but 4cm (1½in) longer to form the button extension/overlap.
- Interfacing (3 pieces): Pieces should be 3cm (1¼in) shorter than the length and width of the three waistband pieces.
- Zipper: Either an invisible or standard zip should be inserted into the center back seam. The zip needs to extend 5–8cm (2–3in) above the fabric edge once stitched in, and the base should sit at or just below hip level.
- Closure: Hook and eyes or a button are needed to close the skirt.
Measurements Required
To draft the pattern pieces, you must first measure and record the following:
- W (Waist measurement): Your precise waist measurement.
- L (Finished length): The desired finished length of your skirt.
Instructions for Making the Maxi Skirt Pattern:
Measuring Up
This process requires two primary measurements.
- Step 1: Measure and record your W (waist measurement).
- Step 2: Decide and measure the desired L (finished length) of your skirt and write it down.
Cutting Out
The main body of the skirt is constructed from three simple rectangles of fabric.
- Step 1: Front Skirt Piece Cut one rectangle from your fabric. The width should be W + 3cm (1¼in), which provides a 1.5cm (5⁄8in) seam allowance (SA) on either side. The length should be L plus your chosen hemming allowance.
- Step 2 & 3: Back Skirt Pieces Cut a second rectangle 3cm (1¼in) wider than the front piece, maintaining the same length.
Cut straight up the middle of this rectangle to create two narrower pieces. The added 3cm (1¼in) width accounts for a 1.5cm (5⁄8in) SA on each piece for the centre back seam.
- Step 4: Pockets Cut two pairs of pockets. If you draw your own or copy them, ensure there is a 1cm (3⁄8in) lip along the long edge and that the two straight edges are at right angles.
- Step 5: Waistband Pieces Cut three pieces, each 8cm (3in) wide:
- Front piece: Half of W + 3cm (1¼in) SA.
- Back piece A: Quarter of W + 3cm (1¼in) SA.
- Back piece B: The same size as Back piece A, but 4cm (1½in) longer; this extra length will form the button extension/overlap.
- Step 6: Interfacing Cut three pieces of interfacing 3cm (1¼in) shorter than the length and width of the three waistband pieces. Press them centrally to the WS (wrong side) of each waistband piece.
Constructing the Skirt
- Step 1: Finish the raw edges of all long edges of the skirt pieces and the long straight edge of the pocket pieces. Use machine zigzag stitches or overlocking for this step.
- Step 2: Join the two back pieces RS (right sides) together at the centre back seam. Insert a zip (invisible or standard). The top of the zip must extend 5-8cm (2-3in) above the fabric edge once stitched, and the base should sit at or just below hip level.
- Step 3: Pin and sew your pocket pieces to the front and back sections of your skirt, RS together, using a 1cm (3⁄8in) SA. Press the pockets outwards.
- Step 4: Place the skirt front and back pieces RS together, aligning pockets and side seams. Sew the side seams, but leave a gap in the stitching for the pocket opening. Continue stitching around the curved edge of the pockets until the stitching meets the side seam stitching of the skirt.
- Step 5: Press the side seams and pockets forwards, then tack the pockets to the top edge along the waistband.
- Step 6: Gather or pleat the front and back of the skirt until it matches the size of your waistband measurement. Tack the pleats in place.
Making the Waistband
- Step 1: Join all the waistband pieces together using a 1.5cm (5⁄8in) SA, placing the front piece between the two back pieces.
- Step 2: Press the entire waistband in half lengthways, WS together. Then, press one of the long edges 1.5cm (5⁄8in) to the inside.
Attaching the Waistband
- Step 1: Pin the unpressed edge of the waistband to the skirt, RS together, matching raw edges and side seams. Sew in place using a 1.5cm (5⁄8in) SA.
- Step 2: Press the waistband upwards and remove any tacking stitches. Cut any excess zip up to the fold line of the waistband.
- Step 3: For both ends of the waistband, fold the end in half, RS together, and stitch down the short edge.
Trim the excess SA to within 1cm (3⁄8in) of the stitching line and across at an angle at the corner, cutting close to (but not through) the stitching.
For the side with the zip, mark the sewing line over the zip, move the zip out of the way, then sew.
- Step 4: Turn the waistband RS out and poke out the corners. Pin the folded edge of the waistband to the inside of the skirt.
- Step 5: Topstitch the entire length of the waistband from the outside, ensuring you catch the underside of the waistband as you sew.
Finishing Off
- Step 1: Add hook and eyes or a button to close your skirt.
- Step 2: Hem your skirt by turning under the hem allowance that was added during the cutting stage.
