Materials Needed & Measurements:

Suggested Yarn: West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4 ply Self Striping or Patterning
Yarn Measurements: 1 (1, 1) x 100g balls in Robin (941)
Hook Size: 3.0 mm
Other Tools: 2 locking stitch markers, wool needle

Stitch Abbreviations Used:

Foundation Chain: Ch 12 (or adjust to your preferred width). Join the last ch to the first with a sl st to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as the first dc), then work 1 dc in each ch around. Join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch-2.
Round 2: Ch 1, work [dc in the front loop only, dc in the back loop only] across. This creates the ribbing. Continue in this round until the cuff is the desired length (typically about 4 cm).
Note: The ribbing helps to create a snug and stretchy cuff, ideal for the top of socks.

Round 1 (Leg): Join yarn to the cuff if you haven’t already, and ch 2 (counts as dc). Work 1 dc in each stitch around the cuff. Join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch-2.
Round 2 (Leg): Ch 1, work 1 dc in each stitch around the leg. Continue working in rounds, keeping your tension even.
Alternating Texture (Optional): To add texture, you can alternate between dc stitches and front or back post double crochet (fpdc or bpdc) for a textured effect. Example:
- Round 3: Ch 1, fpdc around the next stitch, dc in the next repeat to end of round.
- Round 4: Ch 1, bpdc around the next stitch, dc in the next repeat to end of round.
Continue until the leg reaches about 15 cm in length or your desired length.

Work in the Round: The foot is worked from the toe up. Start at the toe, ensuring it is a snug fit.
- Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in each stitch around, join with a sl st to the top of the ch-2.
- Round 2: Continue working 1 dc in each stitch around. Check your fit as you go.
Increasing for the Foot: As you continue working, you may need to increase for the foot’s width. To increase, work 2 dc in the same stitch (increase stitch) every few stitches as per your foot’s size.
- Example: 1 dc in the next 3 stitches, 2 dc in the next repeat around for the increase.
Work the foot until it measures the desired length from toe to heel.

The toe can be shaped with decreases to fit the shape of your foot.
Round 1: Work 1 dc in each stitch around until you reach the point where you want to start decreasing (typically when you reach the tip of the toe).
Decreasing for the Toe:
- Round 2: [dc 2 together] around (dc2tog), repeat around to form the toe.
- Round 3: [dc 2 together] around again, continue decreasing until you have a small hole left.
- Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

The afterthought heel is added once the foot is completed. This method involves adding the heel after you have worked the foot of the sock.

Mark Heel Position: Once the foot is finished, use a locking stitch marker to mark the spot where you want the heel to start (generally around 5-6 cm from the end of the foot).
Heel Placement: To create the heel, use a scrap yarn and crochet a new section into the marked area. You will crochet in the round, working front and back post dc to create a textured, fitted heel.
Work in short rounds, decreasing as needed to make the heel fit snugly.

Weaving in Ends: Use a wool needle to weave in all loose ends from the start and finish of each section.
Final Adjustments: Try on the sock and check the fit. You can adjust the toe or heel for a better fit as needed.

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