A mitered granny square begins with a classic center but quickly transitions into working back and forth across only two sides. This creates a striking diagonal, L-shaped growth pattern perfect for playing with color gradients or scrap yarn.
Project Preparation
Materials Needed
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Yarn: Any weight of your choice. (Medium/Aran weight works wonderfully for beginners).
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Hook: Choose a size that complements your selected yarn (e.g., a 5.5 mm / I-9 hook for Aran yarn).
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Tools: A sturdy tapestry needle for weaving in your loose ends, and sharp scissors.
Common Abbreviations (US Terminology)
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Ch: Chain
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Dc: Double Crochet
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MC: Magic Circle / Magic Ring
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Sl St: Slip Stitch
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Sp: Space
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St(s): Stitch(es)
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Sk: Skip
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Yo: Yarn over
Important Pattern Insights
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Turning Your Work: Unlike a traditional granny square that is worked in continuous rounds, this pattern shifts into rows after the first round. You will turn your work at the end of every row.
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Color Swapping: To achieve a seamless transition between different colored yarns, execute your color changes during the very last yarn over (
yo) of the final double crochet in a row. -
Granite Clusters: The standard “granny cluster” used throughout this pattern consists of 3 double crochets (
dc 3) worked into the same space.
Step-by-Step Stitch Guide
The Foundation
Round 1 (The Center Hub): Form a Magic Circle. Chain 4 (this serves as your first double crochet and a corner space). Working directly into the ring, crochet a cluster of 3 dc, then chain 2. Repeat this sequence (3 dc, ch 2) two more times. To finish the square shape, work 2 dc into the ring, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain of your initial chain-4. Pull the magic circle tail tight to close the center. You now have a small square with 4 distinct sides and 4 corner spaces.
Shifting to the Mitered Rows
From this point forward, you will only build upon two adjacent sides of the square to create the mitered effect.
Row 2: Chain 4 (counts as a dc and a ch-1 space) and turn your piece over. Skip the first 3 stitches. In the upcoming corner space, work the new corner: [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. Chain 1, skip the next 3 stitches, and finish by placing 1 dc directly into the next corner space. Turn.
Row 3: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc). In the very first chain-1 space, work 2 dc to complete a partial cluster. Chain 1, skip the next 3 stitches. In the peak corner space, work your corner: [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. Chain 1, skip the next 3 stitches, and work a final 3 dc cluster into the last chain-1 space of the row. Turn.
Row 4: Chain 4 (counts as a dc and a ch-1 space). Skip the first group of stitches and work 3 dc into the first chain-1 space. Chain 1, skip the next cluster. In the peak corner space, work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. Chain 1, skip the next cluster, work 3 dc into the next chain-1 space. Chain 1, skip the last 2 stitches, and place 1 final dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn.
Row 5: Chain 3 (counts as a dc). Work 2 dc into the immediate chain-1 space. Chain 1, skip the next cluster, and work 3 dc into the following chain-1 space. Repeat the instructions between asterisks until you reach the peak. In the peak corner, work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. Continue down the second side by working 3 dc into each chain-1 space (separated by a chain 1) until you reach the end, placing your final 3 dc cluster into the last chain space. Turn.
Growing Your Square Indefinitely
To make your mitered square as large as you’d like, simply alternate between the logic of Even Rows and Odd Rows:
The Even Row Logic (Starts and ends with a open space/single dc)
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Start with a Ch 4.
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Work a 3-dc cluster into every chain-1 space along the first side, separating them with a ch 1.
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In the main peak corner, always work
[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. -
Work 3-dc clusters separated by a ch 1 down the second side.
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End the row with a ch 1 and a single dc in the very last stitch.
The Odd Row Logic (Starts and ends with a solid 3-dc cluster)
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Start with a Ch 3, then place 2 dc into the very first space to create a starting cluster.
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Work 3-dc clusters into every chain-1 space along the first side, separating them with a ch 1.
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In the main peak corner, always work
[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc]. -
Work 3-dc clusters separated by a ch 1 down the second side.
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End the row by placing a full 3-dc cluster into the final open space.
Finishing Up
Once your square reaches your desired size, snip your yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the tail completely through your last loop to secure it.
Grab your tapestry needle and neatly weave all loose yarn tails into the back of your stitches to hide them. Block your finished square for crisp, straight edges!
