Pattern Description:
The Thistle Kilt is a stylish, intermediate-level pleated mini wrap skirt that blends ‘90s edge with modern kilt-inspired fashion.
Featuring crisp pleats and adjustable closure options, it captures the rebellious vibe of punk styles seen in Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood.
This versatile design allows for customization in fit and finish, making it a chic, timeless statement piece for confident, fashion-forward makers.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
- Fabric: 1 yard of Mood Exclusive Chrysanthemum Crisp Linen and Rayon Woven.
- Interfacing: 0.5 yards of Heathered Black Warp Knitting Fusible Interfacing.
- Thread: 1 spool of 943 Dusted Purple 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread.
- Pattern: MDF329 – The Thistle Kilt Sewing Pattern (free download).
Alternative Recommended Materials and Yardage Guidance:
- Alternative Fabrics: Cotton Sateen, Cotton Twill, or Wool Suiting.
- Yardage Adjustment: While 1 yard is listed for the sample, for larger sizes, it is recommended to use 1.5 to 2 yards of fabric. If you lengthen the skirt, you may need a little more material.
- Closures: Closures are needed, which can include a small snap or hook & eye on the end of the left skirt to secure it to the right skirt, in addition to decorative buckles. Alternatives like buttons, ties, or a zipper may also be used, though a zipper might require adjustment.
Measurements and Details:
- Seam Allowances: All seam allowances are 1/2″.
- Pleat Width: The finished width of the pleats varies from approximately 1.25″ to 2.25″, depending on the size.
- Hemming: The front panel side and the bottom edge of the skirt are hemmed 1″.
Instructions for Making the Thistle Kilt Pattern:
How to Sew the Front Skirt
The process for sewing the front skirt involves creating and securing the pleats:
- Hemming the Left Front: On the wearer’s left side of the front pleated panel, hem 1″.
- Joining Front Panels: Sew the right side front to the front pleated panel, placing right sides together. French seams were used on the sample skirt for a finished look.
- Folding the Pleats: Fold and pin the pleats on the front pleated panel towards the wearer’s left side. Use the notch as an indicator to fold, directing that fold toward the wearer’s left. Start folding from the wearer’s left and move to the right. It is important that the folds on the wrong side never extend beyond the folds on the top, ensuring the pleats “stay in their own lanes”. The right side front piece is not pleated.
- Checking Width Alignment: To confirm sizing, check that the pleats on the front skirt (which consists of the RSF & FPP) create the correct width. Lay the piece flat, then align its upper edge with the bottom edge of the front waist to verify they match in width. Ensure the notches are aligned properly, leaving an extra ½″ on the wearer’s left side of the front waist for its seam allowance. The finished width of the pleats varies between approximately 1.25″ – 2.25″, depending on the size.
- Securing the Pleats: Mark the pleats 2 ½″ down from the top edge, and then edgestitch each pleat to this mark.
How to Sew the Back Skirt
The next steps involve assembling the back and connecting the skirt sides:
- Joining Back Pieces: Sew the side back skirt pieces to the back skirt, aligning right sides together and matching the notches.
- Connecting Right Side: Match the notches on the side back skirt and the right side front skirt, then sew them together.
- Connecting Left Side: Repeat the connection process with the side back skirt and the left front skirt. This step closes the skirt at the left side back, but because the left front skirt is not sewn to the right front skirt, the overall garment remains open as a wrap skirt.
- Hemming the Left Front Skirt: Hem the other side of the left front skirt 1″.
- Hemming the Bottom: Hem the bottom edge of the entire skirt 1″. If the curved shape makes it difficult for the hem to lie flat, use fusible tape to press the hem before sewing.
How to Attach the Waistband
Attaching the waistband secures the top edge and prepares the skirt for closures:
- Applying Interfacing: If fusible interfacing is being used, iron it onto the waistband pieces now.
- Assembling Waistband: Sew the right front waist to the back waist with right sides together, and repeat this step. Similarly, sew the left front waist to the back waist with right sides together, and repeat this step.
- Sewing Outer and Inner Bands: Pin and sew the outer and inner waistbands together at the top edge. Clip the curves, trim the seam allowance, and press it open.
- Attaching to Skirt: Pin the outer waistband to the top of the skirt, aligning right sides and edges. Ensure the waistband notches align with the skirt seams. Sew, then trim the seam allowance and press it upwards.
- Finishing Waistband Ends: Sew each end of the waistband. Clip the corners, trim the seam allowance, turn the waistband right side out, and press it.
- Securing the Waistband: Press the remaining edge of the waistband under, overlapping the existing waistband/skirt seam. Finish by securing the waistband through stitching in the ditch.
Final Closures
The final steps involve adding the necessary closures to secure the wrap style:
- Sew a small snap or hook & eye onto the end of the left skirt to secure it to the right skirt.
- Decide on the placement and number of decorative closures, such as buckles (as used in the sample), buttons, or ties, and sew them on. If a zipper is preferred, it can be used, although it might require a bit of adjustment.
Optional Lining Instructions
The lining is optional and was not included in the standard instructions.
If a lining is desired, follow these steps:
- Cut out the skirt pieces in the lining fabric and sew the skirt lining.
- Place the skirt and lining with wrong sides together.
- Baste the lining and self fabric together at the top edge.
- Hem the skirt by tucking the lining inside the self fabric’s hem.
- Pleat the lining into the self fabric, press it, and then attach the waistband.
